Lavender: Complete Growing and Care Guide
Lavender is beloved for its soothing fragrance, beautiful purple blooms, and remarkable versatility. This Mediterranean herb thrives in sunny, dry conditions and, once established, requires minimal care. Whether you're growing lavender for its ornamental value, culinary uses, or aromatherapy benefits, this guide will help you cultivate healthy, fragrant plants.

Types of Lavender
Several lavender varieties are popular in gardens, each with slightly different characteristics:
English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
- Most cold-hardy type (Zones 5-9)
- Sweetest fragrance, best for culinary use
- Compact growth habit (1-2 feet tall)
- Popular varieties: 'Hidcote', 'Munstead', 'Vera'
French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
- Less cold-hardy (Zones 8-10)
- Distinctive toothed leaves
- Longer bloom period
- Less intense fragrance
Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
- Distinctive "rabbit ear" flower bracts
- Less cold-hardy (Zones 7-10)
- Earlier blooming season
- Stronger camphor scent
Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia)
- Hybrid between English and spike lavender
- Larger plants (2-3 feet tall)
- Higher essential oil content
- Popular varieties: 'Provence', 'Grosso', 'Phenomenal'
Planting Lavender
Successful lavender cultivation starts with proper planting in the right location.
When to Plant
- Spring: After danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed
- Fall: In warmer regions (Zones 7-10), 6-8 weeks before first frost
Avoid planting during summer heat, as young plants may struggle to establish in hot, dry conditions.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Lavender thrives in conditions similar to its native Mediterranean region:
- Light: Full sun (6+ hours daily) is essential
- Soil: Well-draining, slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.5-8)
- Spacing: 18-24 inches between plants for English lavender; 24-36 inches for larger varieties
Soil Preparation
Lavender's number one requirement is excellent drainage. To prepare soil:
- Test soil pH (lavender prefers slightly alkaline soil)
- For heavy clay soil, amend with:
- Coarse sand or fine gravel (30-50% of mix)
- Aged compost (10-20% of mix)
- Consider raised beds or mounds to improve drainage
- For acidic soil, add garden lime according to package directions to raise pH
Create a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the original container depth.
For heavy soils, mix in coarse sand or fine gravel to improve drainage.
Place lavender so the top of the root ball is slightly above the surrounding soil level to prevent water from collecting around the crown.
Fill in around the root ball with your soil mix, firm gently, and water thoroughly.
Apply a thin layer of inorganic mulch like gravel or crushed shell around (but not touching) the plant base.
When planting lavender in containers, choose pots at least 12-16 inches in diameter with ample drainage holes. Use a potting mix specifically formulated for Mediterranean herbs or mix regular potting soil with extra perlite and coarse sand.
Watering Lavender
Proper watering is crucial for lavender success—most problems stem from overwatering rather than underwatering.
Watering Schedule
- After planting: Water deeply every 5-7 days for the first month to establish roots
- Established plants (1+ years):
- Spring/Fall: Water only when soil is dry 2 inches deep
- Summer: During extended heat or drought, water deeply every 2-3 weeks
- Winter: In most regions, rainfall is sufficient; protect from excessive winter moisture
Watering Technique
- Water at the base of the plant, avoiding foliage
- Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep root growth
- Always allow soil to dry out between waterings
Fertilizing Lavender
Lavender requires minimal fertilization—too much nitrogen promotes excessive foliage at the expense of flowers and fragrance.
Fertilizing Schedule
- At planting: No fertilizer needed
- Established plants: Apply a light application of balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring
- Container plants: Apply half-strength flowering plant fertilizer in spring
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers and rich compost, which can reduce flower production and fragrance intensity while making plants more susceptible to winter damage.
Pruning Lavender
Regular pruning is essential for maintaining lavender's shape, promoting airflow, and extending the plant's lifespan.
When to Prune
- Light pruning: After first flush of flowers fades (early-mid summer)
- Hard pruning: Early spring before new growth begins

Pruning Technique
When new growth appears in spring, prune back about one-third of the overall plant size. Never cut into the woody base where no green growth exists.
After the first flowering, deadhead spent blooms and trim back about 1-2 inches of stem to encourage a possible second flush of flowers in late summer.
Rejuvenating Older Plants
Lavender typically becomes woody and less productive after 5-10 years. To rejuvenate:
- In early spring, prune back up to half the plant's height, but never into old wood with no signs of green growth
- If a plant is very woody with minimal green growth, it's often better to replace it rather than attempt major rejuvenation
Seasonal Care
Spring Care
- Remove winter protection once danger of hard frost has passed
- Prune out any winter-damaged branches
- Apply light fertilizer if needed
- Refresh mulch around plants
Summer Care
- Monitor for signs of drought stress
- Harvest flowers for culinary and craft uses
- Deadhead spent blooms to encourage repeat flowering
- Provide afternoon shade in extremely hot climates
Fall Care
- Reduce watering as temperatures cool
- Avoid late-season fertilization
- Clean up fallen debris around plants to prevent disease
- In cold regions (Zones 5-6), wait until after the first frost to add winter protection
Winter Care
- In cold regions (Zones 5-6):
- Avoid pruning after early fall
- Apply mulch around (not on top of) plant base after ground freezes
- Consider windbreaks for exposed locations
- Avoid winter watering except during prolonged dry spells
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Lavender Not Flowering
Possible Causes and Solutions
- Insufficient sunlight: Ensure plants receive at least 6 hours of direct sun daily
- Overfertilization: Reduce or eliminate fertilizer; lavender blooms best in lean soil
- Improper pruning timing: Avoid pruning in late summer through winter
- Young plants: Some varieties take 2-3 years to reach full flowering potential
Woody, Leggy Growth
Possible Causes and Solutions
- Insufficient pruning: Implement regular pruning regimen (spring and after flowering)
- Too much shade: Relocate to a sunnier location if possible
- Excessive moisture: Improve drainage; reduce watering
- Natural aging: Replace plants after 5-10 years as they become woody and less productive
Winter Survival in Cold Regions
Tips for Success in Zones 5-6
- Select cold-hardy varieties: 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', and 'Phenomenal' offer better cold tolerance
- Plant in protected locations: South or west-facing slopes; near walls that provide radiant heat
- Improve drainage: Create raised planting areas to prevent winter wet feet
- Apply mulch after ground freezes: Use inorganic mulch like gravel around the base (not covering the crown)
- Avoid late-season pruning: Final pruning should occur no later than 8 weeks before first frost
- Provide windbreaks: Plant on the leeward side of structures or use temporary winter screens
Conclusion
With its intoxicating fragrance, beautiful flowers, and minimal care requirements, lavender deserves a place in nearly every garden. By providing the right growing conditions—particularly full sun and excellent drainage—you'll be rewarded with years of enjoyment from this versatile herb.
Remember that different lavender varieties have different needs and characteristics, so choose types well-suited to your climate and intended use. Through proper planting, mindful watering, regular pruning, and seasonal care, your lavender will thrive and provide beauty, fragrance, and utility for many seasons to come.