Daylily Care Guide: Growing Easy and Prolific Blooms
Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are among the most popular and reliable perennials, beloved for their beautiful flowers, adaptability, and ease of care. The name Hemerocallis means "beauty for a day," referring to the fact that each individual flower lasts only one day. However, established clumps produce numerous flower scapes (stalks) with multiple buds, ensuring a long season of color from late spring through summer, with many modern varieties reblooming into fall. They are tough, versatile, and come in nearly every color imaginable except true blue.

Understanding Daylily Types
While the basic care is similar, knowing a few terms helps in selection:
- Diploid vs. Tetraploid: Tetraploids (with double the chromosomes) generally have larger, thicker flowers, stronger scapes, and more intense colors than diploids. Both types are excellent garden plants.
- Dormant, Evergreen, Semi-Evergreen: Refers to winter foliage habit. Dormant types die back completely in winter (best for cold climates). Evergreen types retain foliage in mild climates (may suffer damage in cold). Semi-evergreen are intermediate. Most modern hybrids perform well across a wide range of zones regardless of classification.
- Bloom Time: Early, Midseason, Late. Choosing varieties with different bloom times extends the overall flowering period.
- Rebloomers: Varieties that produce a second (or more) flush of blooms later in the season after the initial peak. Examples: 'Stella de Oro', 'Happy Returns', 'Pardon Me'.
Popular Reliable Cultivars
- 'Stella de Oro': Famous compact yellow rebloomer.
- 'Happy Returns': Pale yellow rebloomer, slightly larger than Stella.
- 'Hyperion': Tall, fragrant lemon-yellow classic.
- 'Pardon Me': Compact, cranberry-red rebloomer.
- 'Strawberry Candy': Pink with a darker rose eyezone, rebloomer.
- 'Chicago Apache': Ruffled, vibrant scarlet red.
Flower Forms
- Single: Standard form.
- Double: Extra petals or petaloids in the center.
- Spider: Long, narrow petals.
- Unusual Form (UF): Twisted, spatulate, or cascading petals.
- Ruffled/Edged: Fancy edges on petals (picotee, gold edge, etc.).
Planting Daylilies
Daylilies are forgiving and transplant easily.
When to Plant
- Spring or Early Fall: Ideal times. Avoid planting during the hottest part of summer if possible. They can technically be planted almost any time the ground isn't frozen.
Ideal Growing Conditions
- Light: Full sun (at least 6 hours) is best for maximum flowering. They can tolerate partial shade, but blooming will be reduced.
- Soil: Adaptable to a wide range of soils but prefer fertile, well-draining loam. Improve heavy clay or poor sandy soil with compost.
- Spacing: Space 18-24 inches apart for most varieties, allowing room for clumps to expand.
Planting Technique (Bare Root or Container)
Choose a sunny location. Loosen soil and incorporate compost or other organic matter.
Dig a hole wider and slightly deeper than the root mass. Create a small mound of soil in the center of the hole.
(Bare Root): Spread the fleshy roots over the mound in the hole. (Container): Gently remove from pot and loosen any circling roots. Key Step: Position the plant so the crown (where the leaves meet the roots) is about 1 inch below the soil surface. Planting too deep can inhibit flowering.
Fill the hole with soil, gently firming around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the plant to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it slightly away from the crown.
Watering Daylilies
- Water newly planted daylilies regularly until established.
- Established daylilies are quite drought-tolerant due to their fleshy roots but perform best (more flowers, lusher foliage) with consistent moisture, especially during bud formation and flowering.
- Aim for about 1 inch of water per week during the growing season, either from rain or deep watering.
Fertilizing Daylilies
- Daylilies are not heavy feeders. Often, amending the soil with compost at planting is sufficient.
- If desired, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) lightly around the plants in early spring as new growth begins.
- Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which can promote excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers.
Maintenance and Division
Deadheading
- Removing spent flowers daily ("deadheading") keeps plants looking tidy and prevents energy from going into seed production. Snap off the faded bloom at its base.
- Once all buds on a scape (flower stalk) have finished blooming, cut the entire scape back to the base.

Cleanup
- Remove yellowing or dead leaves during the growing season.
- In late fall, after frost has killed the foliage (for dormant types), cut the dead leaves back to a few inches above the ground to tidy the garden and remove potential pest/disease overwintering sites. Evergreen types in mild climates may not need cutting back.
Dividing Daylilies
- Daylilies form clumps that eventually become crowded, leading to reduced flowering. Divide every 3-5 years, or when performance declines.
- Best time: Early spring (as new growth emerges) or early fall (after flowering, at least 4-6 weeks before ground freezes). Spring division may delay flowering that year.
- Method: Dig up the entire clump. Shake off excess soil. Use two digging forks inserted back-to-back in the center of the clump to pry it apart, or use a sharp spade or sturdy knife to cut the clump into smaller sections. Ensure each division has several healthy fans (leaf clusters) and a good portion of roots.
- Replant divisions immediately at the proper depth.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Daylilies are remarkably trouble-free, but a few issues might occur.
Lack of Blooms
Possible Causes and Solutions
- Not enough sun: Need at least 6 hours of full sun. Move to a sunnier spot.
- Planted too deep: Crown should be no more than 1 inch below soil. Replant shallower.
- Overcrowding: Clumps need division every 3-5 years.
- Too much nitrogen: Use balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer.
- Immature plant: Newly planted or divided daylilies may take a year to establish fully.
- Daylily Rust: See below. Severe infections can impact vigor.
- Thrips: Can damage buds before they open.
Pests (Aphids, Spider Mites, Thrips)
Management
- Usually minor issues. Can be managed with strong water sprays or insecticidal soap if infestations are heavy. Thrips can be more problematic, potentially requiring specific insecticides if damaging buds significantly.
Diseases (Daylily Rust, Leaf Streak)
Management
- Daylily Rust: Yellow-orange powdery pustules, primarily on leaf undersides. More common in humid climates. Remove infected leaves promptly. Improve air circulation. Choose resistant varieties. Fungicides can help prevent spread but won't cure existing infection. Clean up debris thoroughly in fall.
- Leaf Streak: Fungal disease causing yellow streaks along the central leaf vein, eventually browning. Mostly cosmetic. Remove affected leaves, clean up debris in fall.
Conclusion
Daylilies are true garden workhorses, offering spectacular beauty with minimal demands. Their adaptability to various conditions, ease of propagation, and vast array of colors and forms make them essential perennials for both beginner and experienced gardeners. Provide sun, decent drainage, occasional division, and enjoy the daily unfolding of their vibrant, cheerful blooms all summer long.